Additional funding is provided by Karl Lagerfeld and Condé Nast. Full film of the CHANEL Fall-Winter 2014/15 Ready-to-Wear show that took place on March 4th, 2014 at the Grand Palais, Paris.More on. The exhibition and benefit are made possible by Chanel. Amanda Harlech serves as the creative consultant. Lee appeared in the Fall/Winter 201314 campaign for Gucci alongside male model Adrien Sahores, shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. It is organized by Andrew Bolton with support from Mellissa Huber, associate curator. “Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty” runs from May 5 through July 16, 2023. “When a designer has passed away, there’s a large amount of revisionism that goes into play over the years whereas if you are able to do an exhibition relatively soon after the designer’s passing, working with the team you tap into the realness and the rawness of their feelings and their memory, which makes the show more authentic, also makes the designer’s work more authentic as well.” This ability to react quickly is crucial, Bolton said in a recent conversation. Like “Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty” in 2011, “A Line of Beauty” comes not long after the death of the designer. The esteemed Japanese architect Tadao Ando captured some of Lagerfeld’s “creative dynamism” in his design for the museum’s Tisch Gallery by creating what Bolton describes as a “maze,” constructed using the curves and lines that were the building blocks of Lagerfeld’s work. The Grand Palais phmre was completely done up in tweed for today’s Chanel. These will examine such dualities as feminine and masculine, romantic and military, and rococo and classical, among others. In order to consider designs for Chloé, Fendi, and Chanel, there are further subsections within the main straight/curved divide. The focus of the exhibition is on the “how” (the process) and the “what” (the final garments), and Bolton is also interested in creating a taxonomy of the recurring tropes in Lagerfeld’s work. When a dove gray chiffon crinoline with individual white feathers wispily hand-sewn to it by the thousand passed by, it somehow managed to outshine all its sparkling sisters.The tension between the two sides creates sparks Bolton dubs garments in which lines and curves intersect “explosions,” and they will appear like punctuation marks throughout the exhibition, which is arranged as an essay rather than a chronology. Couture is at its best, always, when it wears the fruits of its labors lightly. Here came Lagerfeld’s feather obsession poufs of peach ostrich and marabou trimmed the hems and sleeves of glittering columns-indeed, with the spontaneous air of doodles dashed off his sketch pad. From then on, it was all about silver sparkle and silhouette-the segue being an elegant narrow, ankle-length beige checked coat, subtly flecked with glitter and finished with an iridescent sequined collar and cuffs.Īs the show progressed into evening, slim, elgonated lines alternated with pretty ballerina-length crinoline skirts-and the silver sparkle showcased the maximum capabilities of the Lesage embroiderers. Virginie Viard evoked a picture of an easy-living French vacationa casual summer walk around a Chanel wardrobe, lightly inspired (more later) by the Villa Noailles in the south of. The Chanel suit, in myriad candy colors-mint, checkered pink, peach, lavender, yellow-got an emphatic shoulder and a wide, contrasting belt un peu ’80s, perhaps (that decade, after all, is being referenced everywhere). Once one had taken in the fact that the mirrored circular runway reflected the famed Art Deco mirrors of Coco Chanel’s stairs at her atelier on the Rue Cambon, there was nothing to distract from the contemplation of the essence of haute Chanel-ness itself.Īt the beginning, Lagerfeld put a sustained emphasis on tailoring-a neglected art in womenswear these days. There was no immersive set, no overt theme, and an absence of jokey accessories or visual puns. I wanted the girls to look like walking fashion drawings,” said Karl Lagerfeld, adding, “And I must say, I love feathers!” It sounds contradictory, but this was a calm and stripped-back Chanel couture show by Lagerfeldian standards.
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